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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 11:18 am 
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OK, you mini's experts, here are my questions for you, oh great ones....

1. Do you use the "washing" technique ever? If so, do you just add some water to your paints or have you invested in colored inks as well?

2. What kind of a setup do you use when you do priming? Just take it outside and spray away? Or is it fast enough due to the light layer of paint so you could do it indoors without worrying about the fumes?

3. Is it possible to "start over"? I have read up on it and heard that Pinesol is like the miracle cleaner for miniatures that are painted. Supposedly if you soak a figure in Pinesol for 12-24 hours the paint comes off pretty easily (brush if off with a toothbrush, just don't use the toothbrush for your teeth afterwards). Apparently doing this with Pinesol also will not damage your figure's details at all. I had seen other more harsh-chemical based options, but they have more of a risk for damaging the figure.

4. What types of brushes do you use, and how many different types? From BHL I have heard that the Kolinsky sabel brushes are probably the best.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 12:48 pm 
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1) I have used actual inks for washes before, but watering down some paint is quicker, cheaper, easier, and you get a wider range of colors. I like to use washes for flesh mostly, never on armor or clothing, but that's just me....

2)I sticky tack a bunch of them to the inside of a cardboard box, with one side cut out and take em outside. do them from one angle. let em dry, then move then and repeat. Doing it this way prevents them from getting junk on them on a breezy day (or I do it inside the open garage) and keeps the overspray inside the box. PLUS it forces me to take my time priming and not just spraying the shit out of them and ruining them....which I have a bad habit of doing since I am impatient.

3) I can't comment on this too much since I never mess up! :-" Actually, I have made some of my best work by mistakes. I figured out a COOL way to do melted armor type damage to a model my spraying it with the wrong paint, and how to make cool eyepatches out of miliput after I gouged across a face when trimming flash off...just keep in mind, your first mini will look like crap compared to your 5th, and your 10th will make that look like crap, and your 25th will put them ALL to shame, but they still won't look anything like the ones in the magazine photos! I would NEVER paint over my early works, as they are a mark of pride for me. "See what I did my first try? see how much better I have gotten? I KNOW I can do better next time!"

4)I have used everything from a toothbrush, to a q tip, to a 3 inch wall paint brush. (I did 400 skeletons with that in 20 minutes!)You need different things for different purposes. I like to use a 2 or 3 red sable round tip for most stuff, and I switch to a 000 or I have a 15/0 for the REAL little stiff like eyes and teeth. The ones I think I use the most though are those cheap white handled ones by "testors" from the plastic car model area. they have nylon bristles, and for some reason, I think they work VERY well for dry brushing. BTW, "Drybrushing". look it up. learn it. know it. it looks difficult at first, but it is very easy. It will be your best friend. Once you practice it a bit, it will become your go-to tecnique, and will up your "quality" by about 300%.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 2:05 pm 
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One thing you'll find is that you have to find your own technique. What works for someone else might not work for you. That being said, I'll build on SB's comments:

1) I do washing quite a bit. You have to experiment because if you add to much water to the paint, you can get a 'bathtub ring' effect. That is, the paint will dry darker around an edge where the water sat, and then dry lighter in other areas. It takes a while to get it just right. Or, you can read up on it online and add dishwasher detergent to the mix and not have that problem. OR, get inks. Inks behave differently than paint, though, too. Try different things.

2) I prime two different ways. Sometimes I use a brush on primer. NOT a primer for painting a house or whatever. There is a nice acrylic brush on primer from Testors, I think. But it only comes in grey. I do this for very detailed models. With brush on I control the amount of primer. The second way is the spray and pray. Spray it and pray you don't get a ton of primer in the little detail areas. Oh, and hope it doesn't all over spray on my car! I don't build fancy boxes. I have a box full of latex gloves. I wear the glove, hold the mini, spray it all at once. Why do I have latex gloves? See #3 below. But, DON'T spray inside.

3) Yes, you can start over. Pinesol? Get some mineral spirits. It's so cheap it's almost free. Drop the minis in some mineral spirits and leave over night. Then the paint will practically fall off. I used to do this a LOT with battletech minis I would get off ebay. I'd strip them and repaint them. I would not recommend putting plastic minis in any chemical, however. Not unless you want to remold them, that is. I would check on various miniature centric sites and see what people are doing, but I have a gallon of mineral spirits and it has worked great. This won't damage metal minis. I've scrubbed and scrubbed the tough to reach places and once a new coat of paint is on, no one would know. (I have the gloves so I can dig into a jar of mineral spirits to retrieve the miniatures)

4) Not probably. Kolinsky Sable IS the best. Read and learn. Jennifer Haley, the best mini painter alive (YMMV, of course). She has articles and photos to back up her opinions. Unbelievable ability. I met her at GenCon in Milwaukee years ago when she was painting for Dark Age. I'm SURE she'd remember me. :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 3:17 pm 
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Good info above, thanks guys.

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"If you don't like something, hit it.
:boxing:
If it hits back, shoot it.
:leftfighter4: :halfrobot:
If it's still moving - RUN."

:eeeeek: => :transformer:


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 9:46 am 
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Got another one for you... After your paint job is complete, what do you use for protecting your work?

I've heard brush-on varnish is more of a pain than it is worth... So spray-varnish would be the best option then? Which brand/type works the best?

_________________
- Elric / Silaence

"If you don't like something, hit it.
:boxing:
If it hits back, shoot it.
:leftfighter4: :halfrobot:
If it's still moving - RUN."

:eeeeek: => :transformer:


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 9:55 am 
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I don't varnish mine...shudder shudder. I just am really careful with them, and just go a head and fix any nicks if they do happen.

I have never seen a varnished or coated mini that didn't look like someone coated it in...well.... varnish! I never cared for that look, so I just tried to be careful.

NOTE: I am NOT suggesting this as a solution, just the way that I have done it in the past. If I start painting again, (which it looks like I'm gonna you bastards) I might start looking into varnishes again, since I don't have the free time like I used to to repaint 'em all.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 10:20 am 
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I've looked up some suggestions at mini-painting sites and found some info from a DVD I borrowed from GT, and there are more than one type of spray varnishes. Apparently you can get a matte or "flat" varnish that protects the paint job but doesn't have the nasty glare that you would expect from something varnished.

_________________
- Elric / Silaence

"If you don't like something, hit it.
:boxing:
If it hits back, shoot it.
:leftfighter4: :halfrobot:
If it's still moving - RUN."

:eeeeek: => :transformer:


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 12:35 pm 
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Testor's Dullcote is a great matte spray varnish. It takes the shine right off. However, there are some issues:

1) It's been banned in the EU. Something about it being a deadly poison that will destroy the world, or some such. Piffle, I say.

2) It comes in small cans and it's kinda spendy.

3) I've never bought a can where the nozzle didn't self-destruct, killing me (or just coating my fingers in matte varnish, which the Europeans seem to think is a deadly poison).

And the worst:

4) I don't have a basement or a garage, so I can't spray stuff when it's cold out.

I've started using a brush on varnish called Windsor & Newton Galeria Matt Varnish, and I like it a lot. I get it at Hobby Lobby. It coats your model to protect it and it dulls the paint (the shine, not the color), so cloaks and such aren't shiny. The other bonuses are that you can dull some parts, and leave other parts shiny (like armor or metal) which is really hard to do with spray. Also, I can use it in the middle of winter right there at my desk. The downside is that it takes longer to varnish 50 soldiers at once. My solution to that is to not play a game where you need 50 of anything.

So, my two cents.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:07 pm 
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I use a brush on varnish from Vallejo and then I spray with the Testor's Dullcote to kill the shine. The dullcote is sorta pricey for the size of the can, but I figure with the amount invested already in time and resources a few more bucks isn't going to make any difference. :)

_________________
Simon: Hello
Robert: Hello
Simon: What's your name?
Robert: Um, Robert Unwin
Simon: And what do you do?
Robert: I work at a chicken factory.
<Silence>
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 10:48 am 
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First off thanks, for the info above.

I have yet another question (I know what you're thinking, "Man, this guy never shuts up!")...

How do you all transport your miniatures from place to place? I'm assuming there is some kind of divided container or foam cases that can be used, but I'd rather ask you guys than try and figure it out on my own. More often than not, doing that is a waste of money.

_________________
- Elric / Silaence

"If you don't like something, hit it.
:boxing:
If it hits back, shoot it.
:leftfighter4: :halfrobot:
If it's still moving - RUN."

:eeeeek: => :transformer:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:17 am 
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Of course! Spend more money. :lol:

Sabol Army Transport.

BTW, if you order one, LMK as I might need another for my Pirates and Legion forces.

BHL

_________________
Simon: Hello
Robert: Hello
Simon: What's your name?
Robert: Um, Robert Unwin
Simon: And what do you do?
Robert: I work at a chicken factory.
<Silence>
Simon: .....Good....


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:35 am 
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Wow, $70 for the normal one, $140 for the big one? :shock:

Are they really worth the cash?

_________________
- Elric / Silaence

"If you don't like something, hit it.
:boxing:
If it hits back, shoot it.
:leftfighter4: :halfrobot:
If it's still moving - RUN."

:eeeeek: => :transformer:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:49 am 
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I have a bunch of old grey box citadels ones, and a big fancy Games Workshop one, and I do remember them costing quite a bit of scratch back in the day.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:59 am 
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Elric wrote:
Wow, $70 for the normal one, $140 for the big one? :shock:

Are they really worth the cash?

No.

I have been sick to death of gouge-their-eyes-out pricing there is for generic gaming (and craft and art) supplies. Yes, they look great most of the time. But they are also up to 5 times the cost. When I had to buy new art supplies in college, it was the same way.

If you can't find a gamer brand mini's carrying case on clearance somewhere (only because they look cool), look for a similar style tackle box, craft case, or tool box cheap. You can buy foam inserts (if you need them) at hobby and craft stores in sheets, up to a bed mattress in dimensions (as an extreme example). Get yourself a straight razor utility knife and you are all set.

Most of my mini's are in cases ranging from pencil boxes to tool boxes. I picked up a Rook Steel Storage mini carrying case with combo-locks on clearance at Chimera's for $5.00 (they ran for $50.00 at their booth at Gencon a couple years earlier). It was too small for the mini armies that I had at the time. It should be just about right for my Warmachine group.

...until I get too many to fit in there.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:02 pm 
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To counter GT's comment, I think they are worth the money.

Previously, I bought a Rubbermaid container and some thick foam from Ben Franklin. Then I cut out the foam to fit the models (I did this for VOR and I still have it!). It works pretty well but it is very time consuming. Plus, the Rubbermaid doesn't have all the zippered compartments for dice and rule books, etc. But there is no reason why you can't create your own army transporter. I'm just not in the mood to do it anymore and I can afford to buy the Cadillac of transports.

However, after getting the Sabol case I won't make my own anymore. But that's just me. I guess I'm a miniature transporter elitist!


BHL

_________________
Simon: Hello
Robert: Hello
Simon: What's your name?
Robert: Um, Robert Unwin
Simon: And what do you do?
Robert: I work at a chicken factory.
<Silence>
Simon: .....Good....


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:12 pm 
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It's not the products. I agree that some of them are the best (too good in Rooks example for their heavy cases). It is just the prices they all think they can get away with. I have seen cases exactly the same as a average tackle box for double, or more the mark up. You just get it in a 'cooler' color and a different brand name.

I just think you should check what you are buying before dish out $100.00 for a satchel with the same storage found at department store for $40.00. If you want the best, and what you are looking at is unique, it might well be worth the extra cash.

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They steal your socks. But only the left ones...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:21 pm 
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Thanks again for the info guys. I'll do some "craft store" shopping to price it out... The $70 one from Sabol Army Transport looks incredible, but I just don't think $70 is gonna work for me right now. Maybe down the line yes, but the bills are starting to pile up for this rather expensive hobby. :razz:

_________________
- Elric / Silaence

"If you don't like something, hit it.
:boxing:
If it hits back, shoot it.
:leftfighter4: :halfrobot:
If it's still moving - RUN."

:eeeeek: => :transformer:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:48 pm 
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I carry all my Star Wars Miniatures (which we play on Tuesday nights at House of Heroes) in plastic, compartmentalized Plano fishing lure cases from Fleet Farm. I have two big ones, and I carry them and rules and laser pointers and dice and whatnot all in my fancy Suburban Commando duffel bag.

For my good minis, I have a black plastic case with foam trays and stuff that I bought at the Steve Jackson games booth for $30 at GenCon back when it was still in Milwaukee. It's just like the Games Workshop hard plastic ones, but it doesn't say Games Workshop on it. I also have a bunch of small Chessex minis cases for keeping a couple of squads in. They're nice and small.

_________________
Tabletop Minions - A video channel about tabletop wargaming and the miniatures hobby, mostly.
http://www.youtube.com/tabletopminions

Atom Smashing - My personal gaming blog
http://atomsmashing.wordpress.com


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:17 pm 
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I bought a cool thing for my wife's beading supplies. It is a black cloth case with tons of pockets and zippers, and the whole front zips open and folds dawn to make a nice mat for things. inside is 5 plano style boxes with adjustable tray spots but better quality than the planos, that could easily be modified by adding some foam or something.

I think it was $15.00 bucks at walmart. just look in the bead section for a black canvas square thing.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:48 pm 
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Thanks guys... I went to some craft/hobby stores on my lunch break today, and found a few options. I picked up a large clear case that could probably hold two levels of foam+mini's for $11.99. Only downside is, apparently nobody carries the kind of foam I would use for this. Anyone have any ideas, or should I start looking online?

_________________
- Elric / Silaence

"If you don't like something, hit it.
:boxing:
If it hits back, shoot it.
:leftfighter4: :halfrobot:
If it's still moving - RUN."

:eeeeek: => :transformer:


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